When your Daikin system stops and shows a code, that code is the system telling you roughly where the problem is. Roughly is the key word. A fault code points in a direction, it rarely names the exact fix. Find your system below, tap your code, and it will take you straight to what it means and what to do.
Before you try anything: the only DIY steps that are ever safe are switching the system off at the isolator (and waiting 20 to 30 minutes), cleaning or checking filters, checking the controller settings and batteries, and keeping the outdoor unit clear. Anything behind a panel, anything electrical, and anything involving refrigerant or gas is licensed work. If a code below says switch off and call, please take it at its word.
How to read the tables: 🟢 means there is a safe first step worth trying. 🟡 means book a service, the system needs a technician. 🔴 means switch the system off at the isolator and call us on (02) 4760 0100.
RA & SkyAir (residential and light-commercial: ducted, wall splits, multi-head, cassettes)
Where the code shows: Not stated per model in the source docs. Codes typically show on the wall controller or via the remote's diagnosis function..
Tap your code: A0A1A3A5A6A7A8A9AAAFAHAJC1C4C5C6C7C9CACCCJE0E1E3E4E5E6E7E8E9EAF3F6H0H1H3H4H5H6H7H8H9J1J2J3J4J5J6J7J8J9JAJCL0L1L3L4L5L6L8L9LALCP1P3P4PJU0U1U2U3U4U5U6U8UAUJ
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| A0 | A safety device connected to the indoor unit has tripped and shut the system down. External protection device wired to the indoor unit terminal strip (T1-T2). |
🟡 Book a service. An installer-fitted safety device has activated and needs checking. |
| A1 | The indoor unit's main circuit board isn't working properly. Can occasionally be triggered by electrical interference rather than a genuinely failed board. |
🟡 Power-cycle at the isolator: switch off, wait 20 to 30 minutes, switch back on. If the code returns, book a service. |
| A3 | The system can't clear its condensate water properly. The drain, drain pump or float switch has a problem. Blocked or badly sloped drain line, failed drain pump, or a stuck float switch. |
🟡 Switch the unit off so water can't overflow, and book a service. |
| A5 | The indoor coil is protecting itself: running too hot in heating, or starting to freeze up in cooling. Poor airflow is the usual cause. Clogged return-air filters are the classic trigger; a dirty coil or a coil-sensor fault can also cause it. |
🟢 Clean or check the return-air filters and make sure vents aren't blocked, then power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If it comes back, book a service. |
| A6 | The indoor fan motor isn't running the way it should. Fan motor, or its wiring and connectors. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| A7 | The motor that moves the air-direction louvre has a fault. Swing flap motor or its cam/connector. The unit usually still heats and cools. |
🟡 The system is generally fine to keep using. Book a service to have the louvre fixed. |
| A8 | The unit detected a problem with its incoming power: too much current on the supply input. Supply voltage or wiring issue on the AC input side. |
🔴 Switch the unit off at the isolator and call us. Power faults need proper checking before the unit runs again. |
| A9 | The indoor unit's refrigerant control valve (electronic expansion valve) isn't operating correctly. Valve coil, its cabling, or the indoor board driving it. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| AA | A heater inside the unit has overheated and tripped its safety cut-out. Heater overheat protection (26WH) activated. |
🔴 Switch the unit off at the isolator and call us. Overheating faults shouldn't be left running. |
| AF | The humidifier section of the system has a fault, possibly with water leaking. Applies to models with a humidifier fitted; often drain-piping related. |
🟡 Switch the unit off and book a service, especially if you can see any water. |
| AH | The built-in air-cleaning (dust collector) section has a fault. Dust-collecting element or its high-voltage supply, on models with a built-in air cleaner. |
🟡 Clean or check the filters if your model's user manual shows how. If the code stays, book a service. |
| AJ | The indoor unit's circuit board doesn't know what capacity the unit is. This setting is normally done when a board is replaced. Capacity-setting adaptor missing after a PCB replacement, or a faulty board. |
🟡 Book a service. A technician needs to set the board up correctly. |
| C1 | Two circuit boards inside the indoor unit have stopped talking to each other. Transmission fault between the indoor main PCB and its sub PCB. |
🟡 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the code returns, book a service. |
| C4 | The temperature sensor on the indoor coil's liquid pipe isn't reading properly. Liquid-pipe heat exchanger thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| C5 | The temperature sensor on the indoor coil's gas pipe isn't reading properly. Gas-pipe heat exchanger thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| C6 | The indoor fan's speed sensor or its control circuitry has a fault. Fan PCB, capacity-setting adaptor connection, or a field-setting error. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| C7 | The motor that opens the unit's front panel has a fault. On models with a motorised front panel; drive motor or limit switch. |
🟡 The unit may still run normally. Book a service. |
| C9 | The sensor that measures the room air coming into the indoor unit isn't reading properly. Suction (return) air thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| CA | The sensor that measures the air blowing out of the indoor unit isn't reading properly. Discharge air thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| CC | The humidity sensor has a fault. On models fitted with a humidity sensor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| CJ | The temperature sensor inside the wall controller isn't reading properly. The system usually keeps running using the indoor unit's own sensor instead. |
🟡 The unit generally keeps working. Book a service at your convenience. |
| E0 | A protection device on the outdoor unit has tripped. Generic outdoor protection actuation; the specific device isn't identified by this code alone. |
🟡 A single power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes) is safe to try. If the code returns, book a service. |
| E1 | The outdoor unit's main circuit board isn't working properly. Board fault or a bad connection on the indoor/outdoor interconnecting wiring. |
🟡 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the code returns, book a service. |
| E3 | The outdoor unit shut itself down because refrigerant pressure went too high. Often a dirty or obstructed outdoor coil, a failed high-pressure switch, or a restricted refrigerant circuit. |
🟡 Check the outdoor unit isn't blocked by leaves, plants or stored items and has clear airflow, then power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If it trips again, book a service. |
| E4 | The outdoor unit shut down because refrigerant pressure dropped too low. This can mean refrigerant is escaping. Low-pressure switch actuation; causes include low refrigerant, a failed sensor, or a fan fault. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. Low refrigerant pressure needs a licensed technician. |
| E5 | The compressor motor overheated or seized. Inverter compressor motor lock or overheat. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. Keep it off until it's been checked. |
| E6 | The fixed-speed compressor motor drew too much current or locked up. STD compressor overcurrent/lock; a closed service valve is one listed cause. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. |
| E7 | The outdoor fan motor isn't running the way it should. Motor, its wiring/connector, or something jammed in the fan. |
🟡 From outside the unit (don't open it), check nothing like leaves or debris is stopping the outdoor fan, then power-cycle. If the code returns, book a service. |
| E8 | The inverter compressor drew too much current. Compressor or inverter power-circuit fault. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. |
| E9 | The outdoor unit's refrigerant control valve (electronic expansion valve) isn't operating correctly. Valve coil, disconnected connector, or the outdoor control board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| EA | The valve that switches the system between heating and cooling has a fault. Four-way (reversing) valve; can also be triggered by low refrigerant. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| F3 | The compressor's discharge line got too hot, so the system stopped to protect the compressor. Often a sign of low refrigerant or a restriction in the refrigerant circuit. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. Running with this fault risks compressor damage. |
| F6 | Refrigerant pressure is running too high, often because the system has too much refrigerant in it. Refrigerant overcharge, or a disconnected outdoor sensor confusing the pressure control. |
🟡 Book a service. Refrigerant charge can only be checked and corrected by a licensed technician. |
| H0 | A sensor on the compressor isn't reading properly. Compressor sensor-system fault: disconnected harness or board fault. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H1 | A room temperature sensor or the humidifier's air damper has a fault. Room temperature sensor or humidifier unit damper. The humidifier-damper side mainly applies to models with a built-in humidifier (such as Daikin's Ururu Sarara range); the room-sensor side applies generally. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H3 | The high-pressure safety switch itself has a fault (a sensor problem, not necessarily a pressure problem). Switch, broken wire, connector or outdoor board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H4 | The low-pressure safety switch itself has a fault. Switch, broken wire, connector or outdoor board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H5 | The sensor that watches the compressor for overload isn't reading properly. Compressor motor overload thermistor or its connector. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H6 | The sensor that tracks the compressor motor's position has a fault, so the compressor may struggle to start. Position-detection sensor, compressor cabling, or outdoor board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H7 | The outdoor fan motor is sending an abnormal signal back to its circuit board. Fan motor lead disconnection/short, or the motor's internal circuit. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H8 | The sensor that measures the compressor's electrical current has a fault. Compressor input (CT) system: power transistor, reactor, or wiring. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| H9 | The outdoor air temperature sensor isn't reading properly. Outdoor air thermistor, its connection, or the outdoor board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J1 | A refrigerant pressure sensor isn't reading properly. Pressure sensor or its connector contact. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J2 | The compressor's current sensor isn't reading properly. Current sensor, compressor, or outdoor board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J3 | The temperature sensor on the compressor's discharge pipe isn't reading properly. Discharge pipe thermistor or its connection. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J4 | A sensor that tracks low-side refrigerant temperature isn't reading properly. Low-pressure-equivalent saturated temperature sensor system. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J5 | The temperature sensor on the compressor's suction pipe isn't reading properly. Suction pipe thermistor or its connection. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J6 | The outdoor coil's temperature sensor isn't reading properly. Heat exchanger thermistor or its connection. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J7 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (liquid line) isn't reading properly. The source doc lists J7 and J8 both as liquid-line thermistors at different points of the circuit. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J8 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (liquid pipe) isn't reading properly. The source doc lists J7 and J8 both as liquid-line thermistors at different points of the circuit. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J9 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (gas line) isn't reading properly. Gas pipe thermistor or its connection. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| JA | The high-pressure sensor isn't reading properly. Can also be the high and low pressure sensor connections swapped. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| JC | The low-pressure sensor isn't reading properly. Can also be the high and low pressure sensor connections swapped. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| L0 | The inverter (the electronics that control compressor speed) has a fault. Inverter system fault; power supply capacity or power transistor listed among causes. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| L1 | The inverter circuit board has a fault. Inverter PCB, compressor wiring, fan motor or a blown fuse. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| L3 | The outdoor unit's electrical box is running too hot. Often hot air recirculating around the unit; can also be a fan or board fault. |
🟡 Make sure the outdoor unit has clear space around it and isn't sitting in trapped hot air, then power-cycle at the isolator. If the code returns, book a service. |
| L4 | The inverter's heat sink (cooling fin) is running too hot. Airflow recirculation around the unit, or a faulty fin thermistor. |
🟡 Make sure the outdoor unit has clear space and airflow around it, then power-cycle at the isolator. If the code returns, book a service. |
| L5 | The inverter shut down instantly on overcurrent, often a compressor winding or startup problem. DC-side instantaneous overcurrent: compressor coil short/disconnection or mechanical lock. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. |
| L6 | The inverter shut down instantly on overcurrent at its output. AC-side instantaneous overcurrent. Causes listed include refrigerant overcharge, weak power supply, or a failing compressor. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. |
| L8 | The inverter detected the compressor drawing too much current (overload). Compressor overload, or a break in the compressor coil wiring. |
🔴 Switch the system off at the isolator and call us. |
| L9 | The compressor failed to start, so the system's stall-prevention stopped it. Causes include a service valve left closed, wiring errors, or high standing pressure at startup. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| LA | A power transistor in the inverter has a fault. Power transistor, compressor, or inverter board. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| LC | The inverter board and the main control board have stopped talking to each other. Board-to-board transmission fault; can be triggered by electrical interference. |
🟡 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the code returns, book a service. |
| P1 | The incoming power is unbalanced or missing a phase. Mostly applies to three-phase units; can also be an inverter board fault. |
🟡 Book a service. Supply problems need an electrician or technician. |
| P3 | A temperature sensor inside the outdoor unit's electrical box isn't reading properly. Switch-box / reactor thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| P4 | The sensor on the inverter's heat sink isn't reading properly. Radiation fin temperature thermistor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| PJ | The outdoor unit's circuit board doesn't know what capacity the unit is. A setup step after a board replacement was missed. Capacity-setting adaptor missing or wrong, or field settings not done after a PCB swap. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| U0 | The system is short of refrigerant. Refrigerant shortage or a blockage/wrong piping mimicking one. |
🔴 Switch the system off and call us. Refrigerant leaks need a licensed technician, and running the unit low can damage the compressor. |
| U1 | The power supply phases are connected in the wrong order, or one phase is missing. Three-phase supply issue (reverse phase / open phase). |
🟡 Book a service. Phase wiring must be corrected by an electrician or technician. |
| U2 | The unit saw a power problem: a voltage dip or a momentary blackout. Power supply voltage abnormality or instantaneous power failure. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator: switch off, wait 20 to 30 minutes, switch back on. If the code keeps returning, book a service. |
| U3 | The system's commissioning test run was never completed. Check operation not executed. |
🟡 Book a service. The installer needs to run the system's check operation. |
| U4 | The indoor and outdoor units have lost communication with each other. Classic after a blackout or power interruption; can also be interconnecting wiring or a board fault. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the units still won't talk to each other, book a service. |
| U5 | The indoor unit and the wall controller have lost communication. Can also occur if two controllers are both set as 'main', or from electrical interference. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the controller still won't connect, book a service. |
| U6 | Indoor units on the same system have lost communication with each other. Applies to multi-unit setups (e.g. multi-head). |
🟢 Power-cycle the whole system at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the code returns, book a service. |
| U8 | The main and secondary wall controllers aren't communicating, or their main/sub settings clash. Transmission error between main and sub remote controllers. |
🟡 A power-cycle at the isolator is safe to try. If the code stays, book a service to have the controller settings corrected. |
| UA | The indoor and outdoor units aren't a valid match: wrong model pairing, wrong refrigerant type, or a setup step was missed. Also covers too many indoor units connected on multi systems. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| UJ | An accessory device connected to the system isn't communicating properly. Attached/accessory equipment fault or its wiring. |
🟡 Book a service. |
VRV (commercial multi-split). Outdoor/system codes; indoor-unit codes on VRV match the RA & SkyAir list.
Where the code shows: Indoor wall controllers show the main code; the 2026 doc adds sub-codes (Master/Sub1/Sub2) read from the outdoor unit for technicians..
Tap your code: E1E3E4E5E7E9EAF3F6H7H9J2J3J4J5J6J7J8J9JAJCJEJFL1L4L5L8L9LCM1M8MAMCP1P4U0U1U2U3U4U5U7U8U9UAUCUEUFUHUJ
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| E1 | The outdoor unit's main circuit board isn't working properly. | 🟡 Book a service with your service company. |
| E3 | The system shut itself down because refrigerant pressure went too high. 2026 sub-codes point to closed stop valves, refrigerant overcharge, blocked airflow over the coil, or a pressure-switch/connector fault. |
🟡 Make sure the outdoor units have clear airflow around them, then book a service. |
| E4 | Refrigerant pressure dropped too low. This can mean a refrigerant shortage or service valves left closed. 2026 sub-codes cover closed stop valves, refrigerant shortage, and reversed gas-pipe connections at BS units. |
🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. |
| E5 | The compressor motor overheated or seized. | 🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. |
| E7 | An outdoor fan motor isn't running the way it should. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| E9 | An electronic expansion valve in an outdoor or BS unit isn't operating correctly. 2026 sub-codes identify which valve (Y1E through Y8E) and which board connector is affected. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| EA | The valve that switches the system between heating and cooling has a fault. Four-way (reversing) valve or cool/heat switching. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| F3 | The compressor's discharge temperature got too high, so the system stopped to protect itself. 2026 sub-codes: closed stop valves, refrigerant shortage, or reversed gas-pipe connections at BS units. |
🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. |
| F6 | Refrigerant pressure is running too high, often from an overcharged system or closed stop valves. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| H7 | An outdoor fan motor is sending an abnormal signal back to its circuit board. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| H9 | The outdoor air temperature sensor isn't reading properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| J2 | The compressor's current sensor isn't reading properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| J3 | A discharge-pipe temperature sensor isn't reading properly. 2026 sub-codes identify the specific sensor (R15T/R17T etc.) and board connector. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J4 | A sensor that tracks low-side refrigerant temperature isn't reading properly. Low-pressure-equivalent saturated temperature sensor system. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J5 | A suction-pipe temperature sensor isn't reading properly. 2026 doc lists multiple sensor/connector sub-codes for this family. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J6 | A heat-exchanger (coil) temperature sensor isn't reading properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| J7 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (liquid line) isn't reading properly. 2026 sub-codes identify the specific thermistor and board connector. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| J8 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (liquid pipe) isn't reading properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| J9 | A refrigerant-circuit temperature sensor (gas line) isn't reading properly. 2026 sub-codes identify the specific thermistor and board connector. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| JA | The high-pressure sensor isn't reading properly. 2026 sub-codes distinguish open-circuit vs short-circuit of sensor S1NPH. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| JC | The low-pressure sensor isn't reading properly. 2026 sub-codes distinguish open-circuit vs short-circuit of sensor S1NPL. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| JE | The oil pressure sensor (or a sub-tank temperature sensor) has a fault. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| JF | The oil level sensor (or a heating heat-exchanger temperature sensor) has a fault. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| L1 | An inverter circuit board has a fault. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| L4 | The inverter's heat sink is running too hot. Often airflow recirculation around the outdoor units. |
🟡 Make sure the outdoor units have clear space and airflow, then book a service if the code returns. |
| L5 | The inverter shut down instantly on overcurrent, often a compressor winding or startup problem. | 🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. |
| L8 | The inverter detected a compressor drawing too much current (overload). | 🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. |
| L9 | A compressor failed to start, so stall-prevention stopped the system. Causes include closed service valves, wiring errors, or high standing pressure at startup. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| LC | Circuit boards inside the outdoor unit (inverter, fan and control boards) have lost communication with each other. The 2026 doc lists board-to-board transmission sub-codes (e.g. A3P-A8P, A4P-A3P connections). |
🟡 A power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes) is safe to try. If the code returns, book a service. |
| M1 | The central remote controller's circuit board has a fault. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| M8 | Centralised control devices have lost communication with each other. Can be power loss to one controller, transmission wiring, or an address change. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| MA | The centralised controllers are combined in a way the system doesn't allow, for example two set as master. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| MC | Two centralised controllers have been given the same address. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| P1 | The incoming power is unbalanced or missing a phase, or the inverter board has failed. 2026 doc: unbalanced supply voltage, voltage shortage or open phase. |
🟡 Book a service. Supply problems need an electrician or technician. |
| P4 | The sensor on the inverter's heat sink isn't reading properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| U0 | The system is short of refrigerant. Refrigerant shortage, or a blockage/wrong piping mimicking one. |
🔴 Switch the system off and call your service company. Running low on refrigerant can damage the compressors. |
| U1 | The power supply phases are connected in the wrong order, or one phase is missing. 2026 doc: reversed or open power supply phase; correct the phase order. |
🟡 Book a service. Phase wiring must be corrected by an electrician or technician. |
| U2 | The system saw a power problem: a voltage dip or a momentary blackout. 2026 doc: check the power supply is within range. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator: switch off, wait 20 to 30 minutes, switch back on. If the code keeps returning, book a service. |
| U3 | The system's commissioning test run hasn't been completed, or it failed part-way through. 2026 sub-codes cover: test run not executed, aborted on error, aborted on communication issues, mis-wiring, or a fault on a connected indoor unit. |
🟡 Book a service. The installer needs to complete the system test run. |
| U4 | The outdoor unit has lost communication with its indoor units. Classic after a power interruption. 2026 sub-codes also cover mis-wired F1/F2 transmission lines and faults on connected indoor units. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If communication doesn't come back, call your service company. |
| U5 | An indoor unit and its wall controller have lost communication. Can also occur if two controllers are both set as main. |
🟢 Power-cycle at the isolator (off 20 to 30 minutes). If the controller still won't connect, book a service. |
| U7 | Outdoor units on the same system have lost communication with each other. Transmission wiring between outdoor units or to an external control adaptor. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| U8 | The main and secondary wall controllers aren't communicating, or their main/sub settings clash. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| U9 | Another indoor or BS unit on the same refrigerant system has a fault, and it's stopping this unit too. | 🟡 Check the other units on the system for their own fault codes, and book a service. |
| UA | The mix of indoor, BS and outdoor units isn't a valid combination, or too many indoor units are connected. 2026 sub-codes cover model/series mismatches, refrigerant-type mismatches, BS-unit combinations, wiring position errors and DIP-switch settings. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| UC | Two devices on the centralised control network have been given the same address. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| UE | An indoor unit has lost communication with the centralised controller. | 🟡 Book a service. |
| UF | The system's wiring check found problems, or its automatic addressing didn't complete. 2026 sub-codes: auto-address inconsistency, wrong wiring between indoor and BS units, or stop valves left closed. |
🟡 Book a service. |
| UH | The system hasn't finished sorting out its unit addressing: the number of wired and powered units don't match, or initialisation is still running. 2026 doc: auto-address malfunction (inconsistency); check unit counts or wait for initialisation to finish. |
🟡 If the system was just powered up, give it time to finish initialising. If the code stays, book a service. |
| UJ | An accessory device connected to the system isn't communicating properly. | 🟡 Book a service. |
Code still showing after a reset? Mention the code and your system type when you book and our office can line up the right technician and likely parts before we arrive.
Book a service or call (02) 4760 0100 (24-hour line, Penrith & Blue Mountains).
Codes vary between models and generations, and manufacturers revise them. This guide is compiled from official service documentation and checked by Ample Air, but it is general information, not a diagnosis. Refrigerant and electrical work must be carried out by licensed technicians. Ample Air, ARC licences AU12976 & AU15788. Last verified August 2026.